Monday 5^th April, Limited Inn, Vienna, Illinois

20.00

We were up at six and out by half past this morning, daylight just breaking. Breakfast at a small place up the road. We’re told that Vienna is 48 miles away. “A few hills on the way but they have downs as well as ups and the good lord will be watching you”. So that’s all right then.

Very hot and humid, even early in the morning. We’re soon down to shorts and shirts. The guide book had again promised “gentle rolling hills “today and this is simply not true, They are malevolent mounds that go on forever in a long straight line. We pass through Elizabethtown and Golconda, small pretty riverside towns. If we had known how near Elizabethtown was (9 miles) we would have stayed there last night. Not much change in the view all day. Open countryside with some farming. More variety creeping into the road kill. We saw the skeleton of a deer yesterday, two snakes today, and a beagle (no comment).

It got progressively hotter and we were still cycling into the wind which made it heavy going most of the time. After a couple of hours we met another cyclist doing the Transam Route, a cheerful guy called Larry. It soon became clear why he was so cheerful. He shared the work with his wife. One of them would cycle for 40 miles while the other drives along carrying all the gear in a camper van. Then they would change over. Also, they are doing the whole thing in stages. Our 12 days from Charlottesville to Bardstown, they did “last autumn”. Smart people.

The part of the route we’re currently on is called the Trail of Tears, marking the route the Cherokees took on their forced migration westward. Might make a good title for the book and film of our trip. (Mike - Richard E.Grant, Mick - Jo Brand)

We passed two prisons at Dixon Spring, just outside Vienna. Or rather two “Correctional Centers” . Between the two is a large chocolate factory. Maybe there is some weird psychological theory at work here. (Or maybe not. I’m clutching at straws trying to think why Vienna is so called - it definitely isn’t the architecture)

Just past these we entered the Shawnee National Park where we passed a swamp, something I’d never actually seen before. Even on a sunny day, there is something strange and unsettling about it. The stuff of nightmares.

We reached Vienna at one o’ clock. Fifty miles in just under five hours. Not bad going in the conditions. Lunch in the town diner, served by a less than friendly waitress. Already, after just a day, we have noticed a distinct difference in the attitude of people compared to Kentucky. Perfectly polite but just lacking a little in warmth.

Then back to the edge of town for our motel. “The Limited Inn”. Odd name. The receptionist tells us through a mouthful of hamburger to “Mind the floor. It’s wet”. When I go out later to ask her a question, her greeting is “What’s wrong?”.

There is a dog in the next room, presumably with its owners, though they do seem very independent creatures over here.

Still the room is comfortable and there is Wi-Fi so I am happy.

Dinner is in the Jumbo Restaurant across the busy 4 lane road. A really delightful young waitress called Sam serves us. When Mike orders chili, she asks him if he wants a grilled cheese sandwich or a peanut butter sandwich with it. Really. (he had the grilled cheese – the coward). The combinations get ever more bizarre. I am going to have to raise my game here. Tomorrow I’m going to ask for liver and strawberries with a side order of Bombay Duck and pickled onions. And a Sprite.