Monday12th April , Blue Stem Lodge, Eureka Kansas

21.00

We went back to the same restaurant in Chanute for dinner last night as it was the only non fast-food place open and anyway it was a very friendly place with decent food. In the booth opposite ours, a couple were eating the Sunday special: “All the fried chicken you can eat for $8.95” He was about 25 stone, wearing a red vest, blue shorts and trainers . He may have just finished jogging but I doubt it. She had the look of a woman who had been married to a 25 stone man for a very long time. While they ate, they were both glued to the TV screen in the booth, which was showing a fifties black and white sit-com. Neither of them was saying a word. I suppose it’s the American equivalent of those elderly couples you see in some English pubs. Both of them sitting there silently, with a drink in front of them, just staring into space. At least the TV gives you something to look at.

We were back there a third time this morning for breakfast. Huge bowls of oatmeal, eggs and toast. I heard an unmistakeably Australian accent among a crowd of Americans in the next booth I felt like going over but what do you say?

“Hey, you’re Australian!.... Er....I’m not.”

Today’s journey was harder than yesterday. About the same length and fairly flat roads but the wind made it much more difficult. One long stretch was on a busy road that, mercifully had a wide shoulder. This didn’t stop you getting blown back by heavy lorries coming in the opposite direction. We saw several hawk-like birds and Mike spotted a dead owl. Other than that there were just a few small herds of cattle and acres upon acres of flat green, fairly rough looking arable land , as far as the eye could see. Very evocative names around here. We pass quite close to Wichita and Dodge City. The Santa Fe cattle trail used to pass through this way.

I continued my lists. British Films had to become World Films so that I could use “In The Realm of the Senses” and “Jules et Jim”. I got a good two miles out of an American film beginning with Q before Quo Vadis saved the day. British novels were easy enough but I gave up on American ones because I was getting hungry and tetchy.

We reached our destination Eureka at 14.05. Can’t imagine anyone shouting that out when they arrived. "Oh bugger!" would be nearer the mark, Apart from a Pizza Hut, the only restaurant we could find shut at 14.00. The only bar, which looks very dodgy, is members only. It costs $10 to join and takes three days to have your membership processed. Wonderful. We were reduced to eating "Chicken tenders" (don't ask) from the hot-plate in the local store. But at least the very friendly store- owner recommended a motel and even rang to check that they had Wi-Fi. We were booked in fifteen minutes later and the receptionist told us about a couple of other places to eat in the evening

The afternoon routine is fairly fixed. Unpack. A shower and change. Check and send e-mails and read the news on the internet. Mike starts looking at the route for the next day and I try and make intelligent noises at appropriate points. Then at about six it’s time for dinner. Tonight it was a Mexican place a few hundred yards away, our second Mexican in three days. I thought it was ok and they did sell beer (I’ve found that the Mexican places usually do – travel really does broaden the mind). Mike hates Mexican food but only mentions this every thirty seconds or so.

Eureka’s claim to fame is that it is the “Racing Capital of Kansas” and the track backs on to the motel. We had a look on the way home. A bit dilapidated and quite small but, judging by the amount of local advertising, race-days must be fairly busy.

I did some sums last night and after today we have done 34 days and there are 39 left, if we follow our guide book exactly. So by the end of the week we will have completed over half of the journey. It has come quicker than I thought. It means that currently we have time for 3 or 4 rest days and still leave some contingency time for bad weather. If all goes well, we plan to have ten days spare when we get to Seattle. How this will be spent is still to be resolved. Mike has family in Los Angeles and of course there is San Francisco in between. All I know is that none of these ten days will involve riding a bicycle.